The Future of Waterproof, Breathable Outerwear is PFC-Free

February 16, 2024 in Features, Gear Reviews, Industry News

PFC-Free GORE-TEX

GORE-TEX has been setting the standard for waterproof, breathable outerwear for more than 30 years. Now, they’re shaping the future of waterproof, breathable outerwear, and it’s PFC-free.

The GORE-TEX fabrics we all know feature a combination of materials laminated to a thin membrane called ePTFE (expanded polytetrafluoroethylene) — read more about the different types of GORE-TEX. PTFE is a fluoropolymer, and it’s waterproof, windproof and breathable. While the membrane itself is inert and of limited environmental concern, its manufacturing process releases harmful PFC (perfluorocarbon compound) byproducts — often called forever chemicals. These PFCs are easily dispersed into the environment, where they will remain for multiple generations. PFCs contaminate soil and water and can have significant health impacts on wildlife and humans.

Gore Fabrics (the company behind GORE-TEX) has a goal of eliminating environmentally harmful PFCs from the life cycle of its consumer fabric products. With the help of Patagonia, who made a commitment in 2018 to eliminate PFCs from all their products, Gore has been working to replace the original waterproof, breathable ePTFE membrane with a new material that does not rely on harmful PFCs.

PFC-Free GORE-TEX = ePE

As of 2023, Gore has successfully created a new PFC-free GORE-TEX membrane. It is slowly beginning to appear on the market — and is called Gore ePE (expanded polyethylene). ePE is a membrane much like ePTFE, and its performance matches that of their ePTFE membrane equivalents without harmful PFC byproducts.

According to Gore, the new GORE-TEX ePE membrane is lighter weight and thinner than the original ePTFE with a lower carbon footprint and the same level of waterproof, breathable performance and durability.

Patagonia has been testing the new PFC-Free GORE-TEX ePE membrane and also suggests that it matches the performance of the traditional GORE-TEX membranes. The new ePE membrane is currently available on select models from a limited group of brands, but come fall of 2024, the PFC-Free GORE-TEX membrane will be available to all brands with a GORE-TEX license.

What’s the New PFC-Free GORE-TEX Like

The whole idea behind the new GORE-TEX ePE membrane is to mirror the performance of the original PTFE membrane without the harmful PFC byproducts. From a consumer perspective, the change should be unnoticeable.

I’ve been using a jacket with the new ePE membrane this winter. It’s a Gore-branded 3-layer shell, and as advertised, it’s been working great — basically indistinguishable waterproof, breathable performance when compared with other GORE-TEX jackets.

It’s Lighter Weight

One notable characteristic of the new GORE-TEX ePE membrane jacket is its lightweight feel. It feels more like a 2.5-layer laminate than a 3-layer.

The lighter weight feel is because the new aPE membrane is lighter and thinner than previous ePTFE equivalents. In fact, the new GORE-TEX ePE membrane weighs half as much for garments and footwear and one-third for gloves compared to its ePTFE equivalents. Additionally, the new GORE-TEX ePE membrane is thinner, reducing the thickness by half (for footwear and gloves) and a third (for garments) versus previous ePTFE equivalents.

The lightweight feel of the new ePE membrane construction bodes well for the future of lightweight GORE-TEX jackets. They should move better, pack smaller and weigh less. The test jacket checks all of the above characteristics. It’s handled a weeklong hut trip, several day tours, and a little around-town wear without any undue wear while meeting all expectations of a GORE-TEX shell.

PFC-Free DWR

The first detail to wear out on any waterproof, breathable jacket is typically the DWR (durable water-repellency) treatment. DWR is actually a coating on the exterior fabric that helps water to bead up and roll off of the outer fabric, which allows the waterproof, breathable membrane to work its magic, sealing out water while letting your body breathe.

Like the new ePE membrane, the DWR treatment on new GORE-TEX shells (and other waterproof, breathable jackets) is also PFC-free. While PFC-free DWR coatings are effective, it is generally accepted that they are not quite as robust as the more toxic DWR treatments featuring PFCs. Thus, jackets featuring a PFC-free DWR coating will require more regular maintenance to keep their DWR effective. Maintaining the DWR treatment on your outerwear is as simple as doing laundry with a DWR renewal product.

Although the test jacket has not seen enough use to require a DWR refresh, regular DWR renewal will be the key to maintaining a functional GORE-TEX jacket. Regular DWR renewal means washing and drying your jacket with a DWR solution once or twice a year. You can read more about how to renew and refresh your jacket’s DWR coating.

Well done, Gore.

Although buying a new GORE-TEX jacket will always come with an environmental footprint of some level, Gore’s work to reduce PFC use is commendable. Numerous brands are already using the new PFC-free GORE-TEX ePE membrane, including Patagonia, Norrona, Arc’teryx, Mammut, MTN Hardwear and Rab. Expect to see more from your favorite trusted outdoor brands in 2024.

Read what Gore has to say about the new ePE waterproof, breathable membrane and their efforts to reduce the environmental impact of their products.

Check prices and availability on ski jackets featuring the new GORE-TEX ePE membrane